Sunday 9 March 2014

Carnaval

As expected, Carnaval was absurd. The sheer amount of people partying, beers consumed, feathers adorned and fun had was staggering. I don’t know the exact statistics, but I feel that ‘rather a lot’ is an accurate estimation with regard to all of the above. Such is the number of people and blocos (street parties) that everyone’s Carnaval experience is different. Here is a rough guide to mine.

Day One
Location: Santa Teresa
Costume: Colourful clothing and guitar-shaped sunglasses with a Brazilian colour scheme.
Life Lesson: Don’t wear your favourite clothes. They will get wet.

This was an early morning start. People were hammered by 8 30, as vast crowds packed the narrow streets in Santa Teresa. The costumes were remarkable. There were some timeless classics: Mario & Luigi, Jesus, cross-dressers; some more original ideas: The Sims, a Tinder ‘Match’ (for those unfamiliar with ‘Tinder’ http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/543941/tinder-the-online-dating-app-that-everyone-s-talking-about.html); and the genuinely inexplicable: a man with a 6 foot long wooden club and these fine chaps.

Full marks to miss Silicon Valley on the left. 

Needless to say, I felt phenomenally underdressed and made a concerted effort to change this for the following days. Santa Teresa’s streets were so busy that it was impossible to leave, meaning that a 3-hour samba session in blistering heat was the only option. I can’t say I complained too much, especially as onlookers sprayed water from hoses in their front garden to keep us poor carnaval-goers cool.

Day Two
Location: Lapa
Costume: Bog standard t-shirt and shorts (nightwear).
Life Lesson: Flip flops are not a good idea.

After a day spent in the office covering the League Cup Final and Madrid Derby among others, I needed to let off some steam in the evening. The services of Lapa were required: cheap caipirinhas from street sellers and wandering around the busy streets, again to the tune of the ever-present samba drumming. The two downsides were the smell, which was fairly repulsive, and a muddy residue that had gathered on the ground, causing my feet to squelch uncomfortably.

Day Three
Location: Gloria
Costume: Red vest, silver wings, feather headdress, ample amounts of sun cream.
Life Lesson: Wearing large wings makes walking through crowds an immense struggle.

Wings and feathers are a perfect combination.
The “Bloco de Sargento Pimenta” (Sargeant Pepper), was, as you may have guessed, Beatles themed. I’m told that 100,000 people were in attendance and it was pretty spectacular. Live samba covers of Beatles tunes and an infectious atmosphere were the orders of the day. Yellow Submarine was particularly enjoyable, as was spending the day dancing and drinking under a hot sun.

Day Four
Location: Ipanema
Costume: Brazil dress, green wig.
Life Lesson: Go to the toilet when you can, even if you don’t need to.

This was my favourite day. After some free caipirinhas and a barbecue at the hostel of the inimitable Harry van Manen, a group of us headed to Ipanema to join in the festivities. With the sun still out, we headed to the beach and I watched the sunset in the water, along with some smashing people. It was an unforgettable moment. Many complimented my attire as I struttes my stuff during the parade. Happily, we found ourselves right in the thick of the action as people danced their way down the streets.

I think I make quite a good girl...

Days Five-Seven
Location: Various
Costume: Various
Life Lesson: There is always something going on.

Carnaval technically finished on Wednesday, but has reignited for the weekend. I had three days of ‘rest’, during which time I had a lovely dinner in Lagoa (amazing views) under the watchful eye of Christ the Redeemer, beers on Copacabana beach and another night out in Lapa. You could say I was easing myself out of it all…

Day Eight
Location: Leme
Costume: Buzz Lightyear Mask
Life Lesson: Carnaval doesn’t stop for rain.

I got absolutely drenched. You would have thought that I had been for a dip in the nearby sea, given the state of my clothes. Early on, I gave up on trying to avoid the rain and embraced the whole situation. It seems the Brazilians will party whatever the weather.

Day Nine
Location: Ipanema
Costume: Undecided
Life Lesson: Only time will tell.


Today is the last day. I know not what is in store, but the one thing I can be sure of is that it will be a good laugh. The Brazilians know what they’re doing…

The boys. 

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