Sunday 15 November 2015

A Diamond in the Rough

Once an important mining hub, now a relic of Portuguese colonialism, the city of Ouro Preto is nestled proudly between mountains in what was once known as the ‘Vila Rica’. This gorgeous town, famed for it’s quaint cobbled streets and Baroque architecture, went from being the centre of Brazil’s gold rush in the 18th century to a small town that relies mainly on tourism. Meaning ‘Black Gold’, Ouro Preto was the state capital of Minas Gerais until 1897, before industrialisation and development saw Belo Horizonte take over.

A cat stares me down
Ouro Preto undoubtedly reached its apogee in the mid-18th century. By 1760, Brazil was responsible for almost half of the world’s gold and wealthy European aristocrats flocked to the city. It seems remarkable to think that as little as 250 years ago, the Vila Rica was Brazil’s largest city, especially considering it is now outside the top 300! The Baroque architecture, influenced by European immigration, is evident throughout the town, most notably at São Francisco church and in the main square, Praça Tiradentes.

A snapshot of Tiradentes Square
Tiradentes led a revolutionary movement that sought to win Brazil’s independence from Portugal, in 1789. Living and working in the wealthy city of Vila Rica, Tiradentes was a witness to the lavish lifestyles of European aristocrats, but unable to break into their fold due to his lower class. The ‘revolution’ was poorly organised and lacked coherent leadership. Tiradentes claimed full responsibility for the attempted upheaval and was hanged in Rio de Janeiro, before his remains were scattered throughout the city of Ouro Preto. A century later, Brazil did gain independence and the anniversary of his death, April 21st, has been an annual holiday ever since.

Old-fashioned cars and late afternoon sun are ingredients for lazy days
The history and architecture of Ouro Preto might suggest that this is a city clinging onto former glories. While the city is not quite living in the past, it fair to say that the pace of live is slow. Elderly couples shuffle along the cobbles; rustic, old cars trundle and sputter up the streets’ treacherously steep inclines; and the vibrant samba beats, so recognisable throughout Brazil, are replaced by the irresistible charm of bossa nova. This is certainly a place for meandering. 


However, though Ouro Preto may not be the hub of golden exuberance that it once was, there are still plenty of reasons to be positive. A few mining projects and a healthy flow of tourists support the local economy.  Good roads and relatively short distances to São Paulo, Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janeiro ensure that the city remains far more accessible than most rural, Brazilian towns. And the wealth of history weighing down on the city’s now modest shoulders, means Ouro Preto certainly won’t be forgotten.

A typically steep, Ouro Preto street 


Friday 6 November 2015

A Tale of Two Tournaments

Dickens; A Tale of Two Cities; social justice championed; aristocracy exposed. Using this heavily-simplified analysis of one of the greatest novels of all time, I can make a tenuous, but perhaps feasible, sporting comparison: A Tale of Two Tournaments – the Rugby World Cup 2015 and the Football World Cup 2014. All fans want from these tournaments is to enjoy watching the sport they love in a global setting, but all to often the governing bodies responsible for the organisation seem incapable of making this happen. While World Rugby seem to have coped well with their mandate, with FIFA it’s a very different story. I am one of many who would advocate the revolutionary overthrow of football’s ruling elite, though perhaps not with such murderous vigour as the French efforts of the 18th century.


As the Rugby World Cup drew to an emphatic close on Saturday evening with New Zealand deservedly retaining their trophy, I was unable to stop myself drawing comparisons with football’s equivalent in Brazil last year. There are sporting similarities to be drawn: phenomenal group stage matches, humiliated hosts and brilliant winners. However, an analysis of off-pitch matters interests me more. Unlike Brazil 2014, England 2015 was not embroiled in a scandal, stemming from the heart of the sport’s governing body; vast sums of taxpayers’ money were not so blatantly wasted; and the human rights of workers were not treated with such appalling disregard. England 2015 was simply a fantastic celebration of sport.

Argentina vs. Australia - Rugby Semi Final - Sporting Theatre
These international sporting tournaments should be just that: a celebration of sport and not riddled with bureaucratic squabble. We have become so used to organisations such as FIFA and the IOC leaving their mark on such events that the lack of interference from rugby’s organisers was both noticeable and welcome. England 2015 was a triumph for rugby the sport, as opposed to rugby the institution. The tournament will be remembered for Japan’s audacious, free-flowing flair, the remarkable achievement of All Black legends and perhaps England’s decision to kick for corner instead of goal.

However, while the sporting legacy of Brazil 2014 will undoubtedly be Germany’s 7-1 annihilation of the host nation, FIFA’s irritable and corrupt interference will also linger in the memory. At every game the fans booed FIFA’s flag and anthem, they loudly chastised the price of drinks and tickets and lamented the iron grasp that FIFA held over everything. At England 2015, the fans, by and large, discussed the game. They discussed the sport.

It was FIFA's tournament, not football's - the logo was plastered everywhere
Of course, the Rugby World Cup is far less global than football’s equivalent. The small group of rugby-playing nations may be growing, but it will be difficult to break the established dominance. As the next edition of the tournament heads into Asia for the first time, organisers would do well to look at the mistakes that football has made in attempting to over commercialise the tournament and allowing financial greed to dominate.

Although the reality for these sports may not be as bleak as it was for the cities of Dickens’ novel, as World Rugby looks to a promising future and FIFA endures its darkest hour, it is perhaps fair to say that England 2015 and Brazil 2014 were ‘the best of times’ and ‘the worst of times’ for their respective governing bodies.

One of my best World Cup moments: meeting Cafu, a legend.