Once an important mining hub, now a relic of Portuguese
colonialism, the city of Ouro Preto is nestled proudly between mountains in
what was once known as the ‘Vila Rica’. This gorgeous town, famed for it’s
quaint cobbled streets and Baroque architecture, went from being the centre of
Brazil’s gold rush in the 18th century to a small town that relies
mainly on tourism. Meaning ‘Black Gold’, Ouro Preto was the state capital of
Minas Gerais until 1897, before industrialisation and development saw Belo
Horizonte take over.
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| A cat stares me down |
Ouro Preto undoubtedly reached its apogee in the mid-18th
century. By 1760, Brazil was responsible for almost half of the world’s gold
and wealthy European aristocrats flocked to the city. It seems remarkable to
think that as little as 250 years ago, the Vila Rica was Brazil’s largest city,
especially considering it is now outside the top 300! The Baroque architecture,
influenced by European immigration, is evident throughout the town, most
notably at São Francisco church and in the main square, Praça Tiradentes.
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| A snapshot of Tiradentes Square |
Tiradentes led a revolutionary movement that sought to win
Brazil’s independence from Portugal, in 1789. Living and working in the wealthy
city of Vila Rica, Tiradentes was a witness to the lavish lifestyles of
European aristocrats, but unable to break into their fold due to his lower
class. The ‘revolution’ was poorly organised and lacked coherent leadership.
Tiradentes claimed full responsibility for the attempted upheaval and was
hanged in Rio de Janeiro, before his remains were scattered throughout the city
of Ouro Preto. A century later, Brazil did gain independence and the
anniversary of his death, April 21st, has been an annual holiday
ever since.
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| Old-fashioned cars and late afternoon sun are ingredients for lazy days |
The history and architecture of Ouro Preto might suggest
that this is a city clinging onto former glories. While the city is not quite
living in the past, it fair to say that the pace of live is slow. Elderly
couples shuffle along the cobbles; rustic, old cars trundle and sputter up the
streets’ treacherously steep inclines; and the vibrant samba beats, so
recognisable throughout Brazil, are replaced by the irresistible charm of bossa
nova. This is certainly a place for meandering.
However, though Ouro Preto may not be the hub of golden
exuberance that it once was, there are still plenty of reasons to be positive.
A few mining projects and a healthy flow of tourists support the local
economy. Good roads and relatively
short distances to São Paulo, Belo Horizonte and Rio de Janeiro ensure that the
city remains far more accessible than most rural, Brazilian towns. And the
wealth of history weighing down on the city’s now modest shoulders, means Ouro
Preto certainly won’t be forgotten.
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| A typically steep, Ouro Preto street |
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